TASTE Fall 2022

There is something so warm and cozy about fall. With the arrival of brisk, sunny days, it’s the perfect time to settle in with a glass of something rich and inviting. This issue, we’re all about spirits. Along with an array of fabulous fall-inspired cocktails, we feature bourbon, Scotch and other dark spirits, all perfect pours to sip on as the season turns. We offer classic, comforting recipes with the everyday meal in mind, and menus perfect for entertaining. So, pull out your favourite sweater, curl up with a glass of something delicious and embrace the beauty of fall. With the many spirited articles featured here and the highly anticipated Premium Spirit Release just around the corner, you’re sure to fall for spirits this season!

Fall for Spirits

FOOD/DRINK/MORE BC HARVEST / 2022 PREMIUM SPIRIT RELEASE / KOREAN BARBECUE

“Black currents and smoked meat, dark chocolate, grilled sage, toasted brown spice, pencil lead and espresso aromas grip the nose. It has a supple entry with vanilla, bittersweet chocolate, coffee savoury herbs, roasted bell pepper and scorched earth flavours. It's a powerful wine, muscular and considerable” - Daenna Van Mulligen

PHANTOM CREEK ESTATE CABERNET FRANC SOLD EXCLUSIVELY AT BCLIQUOR STORES www.phantomcreekestates.com

fall 2022

the taste team

SUSANNE KNIGHT MANAGING EDITOR/ART DIRECTOR Susanne has produced more than 40 issues of TASTE and holds the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2 Certification. Born and raised in Vancouver, she is passionate about creating a quality magazine for BC customers. She loves producing beautiful images to showcase the recipes and products. Susanne enjoys a rich red wine in the fall. LYDIA DEL BIANCO CDP SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lydia has a BFA from UVic and has studied internationally at the Masters level with SVA and SCAD. She has been the senior designer on TASTE since 2009 and leads the in-house design team at BCLIQUOR. Lydia is passionate about typography and branding and loves a glass of Malbec in the fall. CONNIE HUI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Connie leads the marketing team for BCLIQUOR and is responsible for creating innovative ideas for the brand and magazine. Her in-depth experience in marketing and consumer research allows her to capture the trends that readers are most interested in. She enjoys running and yoga and is an avid foodie. Her fall go-to is a California Zin. SHAINA WALKER SENIOR MANAGER, MARKETING Shaina leads the marketing, advertising, and TASTE teams. She works with the talented group at TASTE providing strategic vision for the magazine. She is passionate about cooking and jumps at the opportunity to host family and friends. Her go-to fall favourite is a Whiskey Sour. RAISA HASANEN GRAPHIC DESIGNER Raisa has a B.Des from Emily Carr Institute of Art + Design and more than 15 years of experience in design. She sees life through a creative and detailed eye so finds joy wading through a sea of colour swatches or balancing even the smallest unit of type. She likes to cozy up with a Maple Old-Fashioned in the fall. DIANE SMALLWOOD DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Diane has a diploma in Graphic and Visual Design and over 25 years of experience in design and production. Her specialty on TASTE is bringing out the best in the photos. She holds the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2 Certification. Diane sips on white Bordeaux in the fall. CONNIE LEE MARKETING PRODUCT SPECIALIST Connie holds the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2 Certification and a BCOM in Marketing from UBC. She enjoys travelling and exploring new cuisines and wines to share with customers and readers. In the fall, you’ll find her sipping a new whiskey find from the Premium Spirit Release. CAROLINE RIEDEL A/MAGAZINE COORDINATOR Caroline has a degree in Social Communication with a major in Marketing & Advertising. She has experience working with magazines in Brazil and is passionate about photography. She loves travelling and exploring new places. In the fall, Caroline likes to sip on a smooth Scotch with a drop of coconut water.

PHOTOGRAPHY JOE BORRELLI PHOTOGRAPHY PICNIC CREATIVE PRINTER MITCHELL PRESS

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fall 2022

from the cover …

OUR SYMBOLS

Country of Origin refers to where the product comes from.

Dry includes many popular red wines (e.g. Bordeaux, Chianti, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir) and white wines (e.g. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio). Sparkling wines labelled as Brut will also be very dry on the palate. In the former codes, wines would have been labelled as 00. Dry wines have less than 5g of residual sugar per litre. Semi-Dry wines have a hint of sweetness in the mouth and include many Pinot Gris, Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and California reds. In the former codes, wines would have been labelled as 01 to 02. Semi-dry wines have 6g to 24g of residual sugar per litre. Sweet wines will have noticeable sweetness but not enough to be considered dessert wines. Many Moscatos and German wines labelled with the terms Spätlese or Auslese will be included. In the former codes, wines would have been labelled as 03 to 07. Sweet wines have 25g to 79g of residual sugar per litre. Very Sweet wines include the famous dessert wines of the world like Sauternes, Tokaji Aszú, port and sweet sherries. In the former codes, wines would have been labelled as 08 to 10. Very sweet wines have greater than 80g of residual sugar per litre.

New products have been in market for three months or less.

WOODFORD RESERVE DISTILLER’S SELECT KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY USA $51.99 480624

BCL Select products are only available at BCLIQUOR stores.

BC VQA Wines with the BC VQA designation are 100 percent grown, made and bottled in BC. VQA stands for

Vintners Quality Alliance.

BC Craft Beer is BC-made and small-batch.

Woodford is the perfect whiskey for fall. Expect full, rich dried fruit with hints of orange and mint on the nose. This is a rich and complex bourbon, with cinnamon, toffee and citrus notes all wrapped up in a pleasant, warming finish.

BC Spirits are distilled and bottled in BC.

Ontario VQA Wine, similar to BC VQA, Ontario VQA wines are 100 percent grown, made and bottled in Ontario.

Organic products with this designation are certified organic.

Kosher products with this designation are certified kosher.

TASTE Magazine is printed on 10 percent recycled paper using 100 percent vegetable ink.

To inquire about advertising opportunities, please contact Susanne Knight at taste.magazine@bcliquorstores.com. Prices are subject to change without notice. In the event of any error or omission published in this magazine, the product description and display price in the liquor store will prevail. Products in this publication will be available as of September 2022, unless otherwise noted. Quantities may be limited. Items with very limited quantities are distributed only to Signature BCLIQUOR stores. Visit bcliquorstores.com to locate any products sold at BCLIQUOR stores and for up-to- date pricing information. Prices do not include taxes or container deposit.

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TASTE Magazine is a publication of BCLIQUOR TM .

TASTE Magazine BCLIQUOR 3383 Gilmore Way, Burnaby, BC V5G 4S1 Susanne Knight 604 252 8722 taste.magazine@bcliquorstores.com

in every issue … 16 WHAT’S NEW Find out what everyone is talking about. 40 MORE FOR

YOUR POUR 7 wines under $17.

#ONTREND Pick up one of these super- hot products today! THE COCKTAIL MENU Featuring root vegetables. PRODUCT CONSULTANT’S CHOICE Our expert Carl Gilsenan shares their favourites. BAR STAR Featuring Barry Jackson of Acquafarina. BCL SELECT Available only at BCLIQUOR.

60 WHEN THE CHIPS COME OUT Perfect wines to pair with comforting snack food.

BC BEST OF THE HARVEST

Local winemakers discuss the beauty of the harvest and their predictions for the coming year. MUSES OF MUSTARD We take this cupboard staple from the sidelines to star ingredient in both sweet and savoury dishes.

102

66 A THANKFUL GATHERING

A menu perfect to gather around with friends and family.

109

SEASONAL OFFERINGS

72 GOING AGAINST THE GRAIN We look at bourbon’s grainy present and future. 76 MAKE IT MEATBALLS These bite-sized balls pack a flavourful punch! 86 SPICY WINES ARE HERE FOR FALL Move over savoury, we look to spicy wines for the season. 90 GUILTY (PLANT-BASED) PLEASURES Delicious, comforting plant- based recipes perfect for fall. 94 BEER PAIRINGS FOR THE fun? With so many styles to choose from, there’s a beer perfect for every dish! 98 KOREAN BARBECUE Small plates, huge flavour! 104 MAD SCIENTIST COCKTAILS THANKSGIVING MEAL Why should wine have all the

128

SPECIAL EVENTS & TASTINGS RECIPE INDEX

12 ROCK ‘N’ ROLL REDS Get your playlist ready, we’re pairing wines with tunes! 18 HANDMADE PASTA

132 132

TASTE TEST KITCHEN

160 LAST WORD Featuring Pinot Noir. 110 GOLD RUSH REDUX California wine isn’t all Napa and Sonoma. We look at the starring regions emerging from down south. 114 ONE-POT MEALS Forget the fuss (and the clean-up) with these simple mid-week meals. 119 EXPLORE AUSTRALIAN WINE Rediscover your love of Australian wine. 120 BORDEAUX BLISS:

Making your own pasta is delicious and easier than it looks.

26 DARK SPIRITS 32 AFFORDABLE

We explore dark spirits with the help of delicious cocktail recipes.

WINES TO START A COLLECTION You don’t have to be a millionaire to collect wine. It starts with just one bottle.

36 CLASSIC STEAMING STEWS The perfect fare for fall. 42 GETTING TO KNOW We chat with Ian Somerhalder and Paul Wesley about Brother’s Bond Bourbon. 44 BRÛLÉE ALL DAY! Explore the versatility of this delicious cooking method.

2019 VINTAGE RELEASE What we can expect from this stellar vintage.

124 2022 PREMIUM SPIRIT RELEASE

We took inspiration from fictional mad scientists to create these delicious Halloween sips.

50 WHO IS GLEN?

You won’t want to miss out on this release of rare offerings.

Why do we keep hearing about “Glen” in the world of Scotch?

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BC Best of the Harvest

TIM PAWSEY Tim Pawsey is a well-travelled food and wine writer at various publications, including WHERE Vancouver, Quench, SIP, Vitis, The Alchemist and others. Find him at hiredbelly.com and follow him on Twitter and Instagram @hiredbelly and Facebook @TheHiredBelly.

Ask any winemaker what the highlight of their year is and chances are they’ll tell you, “Harvest!”

A sk any winemaker what the highlight of their year is and chances are they’ll tell you, “Harvest!” It’s no wonder. The vine rarely stands still. And as its guardian, from winter dormancy through pruning to bud break, veraison and beyond, the winemaker is there every step of the way. Depending on where you are in BC, harvest time now varies between late August and October. In the south Okanagan it used to occur two to three weeks ahead of the north. Vancouver Island was often the last region to bring in its grapes, and almost everyone played a game of chance, picking the last of the fruit just days before the first frost. Then came climate change. Over the last decade, winegrowers have handled challenges rarely encountered before, like this year’s unseasonably cool spring to heavy rains, or wildfire smoke to the 2021 heat dome. When the temperature hits 37 degrees Celsius, most varieties will shut down in order to survive and the growing season is interrupted. BC winemakers hail from Canada and around the world. It is a gift that we can draw upon so much expertise. Since Fort Berens winemaker Alessandro (Alex) Nel arrived in Lillooet from

South Africa in December 2020, he has learned to work with varieties new to him, such as Riesling and Cabernet Franc. But Nel’s biggest challenge compared to the Cape was the weather, from the heat to frost and wildfires. This year’s cold spring also took him by surprise. “It was looking like an early start like last year. But then it got cold, and everything slowed down and bud break was really delayed. We just hope that we have a long season this year—and no early frost.” As for what excites him most about harvest, “I love the busyness, the multi-tasking…It’s really a lot of fun and it keeps you on your toes!” For Clos du Soleil winemaker Michael Clark, “It’s the culmination of a year’s process. By the time you get to harvest, the potential quality of the wine is largely locked in—because it is my belief that 95 percent of the quality is coming from the grapes. And then the other five percent is how you treat them at the winery.” In the Thompson Valley, Monte Creek’s Galen Barnhardt agrees that timing is everything, but he cautions, while you start with “the best laid plans,” they don’t always pan out. “Sometimes the fruit hits the crush

pad and it’s a little bit different than you thought you were getting. You have to be adaptable—you can’t be a square peg in a round hole…” He adds, “That’s what makes the great wineries great—they’re able to work with all different types of fruit to make the best wine possible.” This year is Mark Beringer’s (Phantom Creek Estates director of winemaking) 37 th vintage—and his second in the Okanagan. Beringer, whose family forged a Napa icon, loves the build-up to harvest, which he describes as a “fully immersive experience, where you keep your head down and keep going.” The Okanagan’s cooler climate and northern latitude means, “The season starts later, and the harvest is more compressed. Once it’s over you’re exhausted and tired,” he adds, “but it’s so rewarding!” “Unquestionably, it’s the most exciting time of the year,” says Mission Hill chief winemaker Corrie Krehbiel. “Every harvest is like a new beginning and a new wine life.” As to when to pick, “It comes down to the flavours that you’re seeing walking through the vineyard. That’s when you’re starting to make those decisions. How do the acids look, and the tannins? As you’re doing

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W I N E S

Crisp Chardonnay

Merlot Petit Verdot

BC, VQA +423702

BC, VQA +397260

A great discovery. Made in our very own backyard by locals.

| BC BEST OF THE HARVEST |

that, you’re also formulating when to pick—and exactly what to do with that fruit when it comes in.” Krehbiel adds, “But as much as it’s all about the science, so much is still based on flavour. At the end of the day, that’s what’s so exciting to me. Just seeing how that vintage is starting to show itself in the fruit.” Blasted Church winemaker Evan Saunders compares harvest to “an endless game of Tetris; trying to figure out what goes where, especially when something happens that changes everything, whether it’s too much or too little fruit, or maybe a piece of equipment that fails. Every subsequent piece of the puzzle has to be changed!” Despite the stress of long days and sleepless nights, Saunders revels in fall as one of his favourite seasons. “Even though it was a slow start to the year, summer is always pretty hot and dry. We just hope for a nice extended fall, and we’ll still be looking pretty good. With those mid-20 degrees Celsius days, cooler nights and the leaves changing, it’s just a beautiful time to be in the valley.” Meanwhile, Clos du Soleil’s Clark sums up harvest perfectly. “What we’re trying to do every vintage is to grow grapes that are as distinctive as possible in terms of representing the terroir in terms of the region, the Similkameen. I want every wine to tell a story— about the place and about the year.”

FORT BERENS RIESLING BC VQA $21.99 641357 Upfront orchard fruits, rose petal and tropical notes lead to a gently off-dry palate with vibrant, juicy, zesty green apple and lemon-lime flavours.

CLOS DU SOLEIL CÉLESTIALE BC VQA $29.99 947002 This Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend, with forward red and black fruit, showcases a plush, approachable raspberry and blackberry palate with complex spicy hints.

MONTE CREEK LIVING LAND SPARKLING ROSÉ BC VQA $21.99 228385 This sparkling rosé is made from 100 percent estate-grown Marquette. Expect lively bubbles and forward notes of red fruit and citrus before a juicy and crisp strawberry and watermelon- toned palate. A very food-friendly pour.

PHANTOM CREEK ESTATES ESTATE CABERNET FRANC BC VQA $41.99 90203 This Cabernet Franc sources fruit from Black Sage and Golden Mile Bench. Vibrant raspberry and blackberry flavours are backed by good acidity and

hints of spice and sage through to a lengthy finish.

BLASTED CHURCH HATFIELD’S FUSE BC VQA $19.99 734475 This blend of several white varieties sports floral, orchard and stone fruit aromas before a lush citrus

MISSION HILL RESERVE MERLOT BC VQA $29.99 772244 Sourced from south Okanagan estate vineyards, this wine is plush and plummy with blackberry and cedar notes supported by approachable, well-integrated tannins leading to a lengthy finish.

and green apple palate. Chicken and cream pasta sauces are perfect pairing partners.

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Muses of Mustard Mustard & Brandy Roast Chicken served with Fingerling Potatoes

LAWREN MONETA Chef, food stylist, recipe developer and mommy, Lawren Moneta’s culinary passion has taken her all over the world. Now based in Vancouver, she loves exploring the ever-expanding food and wine culture the West Coast has to offer.

Mustard, Cauliflower & Cheddar Soup

pairs with Mustard & Brandy Roast Chicken SONOMA-CUTRER RUSSIAN RIVER RANCHES CHARDONNAY USA $28.99 359505 Delicious notes of white peach, green apple, toasted meringue and lemon zest characterize this cool- region Chardonnay. It has a creamy texture balanced by crisp acidity.

pairs with Mustard,

Cauliflower & Cheddar Soup

GEHRINGER PRIVATE RESERVE DRY RIESLING BC VQA $15.99 347492 This award-winning dry Riesling boasts juicy peach, apple, lemon zest and honey flavours backed by bright acidity and stony minerality. It is a refreshing complement to every cheesy mouthful of cheddar soup.

MASI MODELLO PROSECCO Italy $19.99 161591 Flavours of apricot, apple, yellow pear, lemon and white flowers are beautifully integrated in this refreshing Prosecco. The fine bubbles are a perfect palate cleanser to enjoy with soups, salads and seafood.

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for recipes, see index on page 132

Espresso Martini

Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a glass. Garnish with espresso beans.

2 oz Tito’s Handmade Vodka 1 oz coffee liqueur 1 oz espresso ½ oz simple syrup ½ oz creamer, optional 3 espresso beans, garnish

| MUSES OF MUSTARD |

pairs with Dark Chocolate & Honey Mustard Tart WRITERS’ TEARS COPPER POT IRISH WHISKEY Ireland $69.99 209544 700 ml A blend of aged single pot and single malt whiskey, Writers’ Tears features notes of vanilla, orchard fruits, ginger and toasted butterscotch with a long, graceful finish. Enjoy it neat, over ice or in a hot toddy.

pairs with Dark Chocolate & Honey Mustard Tart KAHLÚA COFFEE LIQUOR Mexico $27.49 123315 Rich dark chocolate, freshly brewed coffee, vanilla and caramel notes characterize this top-selling liqueur made from 100 percent Arabica coffee beans. It’s the perfect ingredient in an Espresso Martini or Vietnamese Iced Coffee.

ingredient in Mustard & Brandy Roast Chicken ST-RÉMY VSOP BRANDY France $26.49 8888 This smooth, well- balanced brandy offers flavours of apples, raisins, nuts and vanilla and is perfect for sipping over ice or used as an ingredient in cooking.

Dark Chocolate & Honey Mustard Tart

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for recipes, see index on page 132

Rock ‘n’ Roll Reds

JAMES NEVISON James Nevison is an award-winning wine writer, educator and the co-founder of HALFAGLASS. He is the wine columnist for The Vancouver Province , where his column “The Wine Guy” appears each Thursday. James is the co-author of seven best-selling books on wine in Canada, including Had a Glass 2015: Top 100 Wines Under $20 . Follow his wine musings @hadaglass.

Whether it’s a punchy intro or a torrid riff of acidity, there’s a whole concert of rock ‘n’ roll reds waiting to be enjoyed.

T here’s nothing wrong with pairing wine with food, but what about matching wine with tunes? Music is another of life’s important accompaniments, whether it is complementing a meal, or simply bolstering a conversation. That said, music genres are as diverse as wine styles, so to try and pair wine with music broadly would end up being, well, as subjective as wine and food pairings! But to stake a claim, here it goes, nothing beats a rock ‘n’ roll red! What makes for a rock ‘n’ roll red wine? Is it a state of mind? Well, kind of, but it’s also more. Grapes have distinct traits and characteristics, and when coupled with winemaking process and technique, can certainly come across edgy and energetic. Whether it’s a punchy intro or a torrid riff of acidity, there’s a whole concert of rock ‘n’ roll reds waiting to be enjoyed. Proto-Rock (Soul Era) & GSM Rock ‘n’ roll certainly has roots in R&B. Up-tempo, beat-heavy rhythm and blues tracks couldn’t help but get listeners rocking, rolling and grooving. Of course, these proto-rock tracks didn’t yet feature thundering guitar licks, there was more of a soulful edge. Much like a robust yet smooth GSM or Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend. The

Syrah/Shiraz brings the heat (or at least the peppery spice), while Mourvèdre adds an earthy, soulful hit. Which is all polished by smooth, fruity Grenache— providing a melodic tune overall.

Rhône regions, Syrah from Crozes- Hermitage may be less polished, but still delivers gut punches of flavour and elegant tension, staccato peppery notes and a rebellious attitude overall. Stadium (Arena) Rock & Malbec Of course, there are times when you just want to rock out with a crowd. To let your hair down and turn the power chords up to 11 (in a friendly kind of way), massage and awash the rock ‘n’ roll in melody and slick production. Enter Malbec. It’s often ready for a party; its fulsome and typically approachable stance always ready to please a group, while the wine’s dark fruit and leathery savouriness is gunning for rockstar status. Heavy Metal & Zinfandel When is too much “too much?” To the casual listener, heavy metal may come across as heavy-handed, all overwrought guitars and thrashing drums. Similarly, Zinfandel—with its potential to hit high levels of alcohol and almost jammy fruit—may at first seem overblown. But take another listen (and another sip). When in tune, heavy metal and Zinfandel both show beauty and artistry, walking a delicious ledge between too much and masterful control.

Classic Rock & Chianti Classico

Timeless. Vibrant. Catchy and easy to get into. These are the traits that make classic rock, well, classic. And from a wine perspective, the same can be said for Chianti Classico. The Sangiovese grape is like a searing guitar lick, providing vibrant acidity that helps the wine sing. Plus there are the back- up grapes of Chianti—the Canaiolo, Colorino and Merlot—ready to add bass and catchy snare. Not to mention the longstanding food pairing prowess of Chianti Classico, this Tuscan red hasn’t met a tomato-based sauce it can’t groove to! Punk Rock & Crozes-Hermitage Some red wines want to scream more than sing in the glass. All leather, animal, wild herbs and spice. Such are the Syrah of the Northern Rhône. But we’ll leave the highfalutin Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas to the fancy wine types: Crozes-Hermitage is the punk rock of rock ‘n’ roll reds. Less appreciated than the other Northern

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| ROCK ‘N’ ROLL REDS |

pairs with Proto-rock (Soul Era)

pairs with Classic Rock

Alternative Rock & Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is known as the “heartbreak grape” after all, so it naturally fits into the whole Indie/Alternative/Emo scene. Thin-skinned and temperamental, the grape can’t hold its emotions back in the glass, with great examples providing a balance of lively fruit and savoury, earthy breakdown. Indeed, this seems a fitting metaphor for both life and music. Yet when Pinot Noir truly sings, it can really tug at both taste buds and heartstrings. So, open a bottle and pour a glass—and crank out the tunes.

SAN FELICE CHIANTI CLASSICO Italy $23.99 484469 San Felice keeps it classic with this Chianti Classico, a blend of local Pugnitello grapes full of cherry fruit, enticing acidity and complementary oak influence. Sangiovese, Colorino and

TORBRECK OLD VINES BAROSSA VALLEY GRENACHE SHIRAZ MOURVÈDRE Australia $28.99 806588 Why settle for one grape when Torbreck GSM (Grenache-Syrah- Mourvèdre) brings it all in a triumvirate of polished ripe fruit (Grenache), soulful earthy notes (Mourvèdre) and a peppery kick (Syrah).

pairs with Stadium (Arena) Rock KAIKEN SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL MALBEC Argentina $15.99 578690 Dark fruit gets complemented by tobacco leaf and spice in this bright garnet beauty that starts plush before herbs, vanilla and toasty oak come to the fore.

Rock ‘n’ Roll Reds Mixtape 1 “Rock the Joint” by Jimmy Preston and Torbreck GSM 2 “Whole Lotta Love” by Led Zeppelin and

pairs with Punk Rock

M. CHAPOUTIER LES MEYSONNIERS CROZES- HERMITAGE France $29.99 131078 Bold and bawdy yet refined and elegant, this Northern Rhône Syrah dances to its own beat with its savoury, fruit-flecked silky and balanced stance.

San Felice Chianti Classico

3 “Don’t Stop Believin’” by Journey and Kaiken Selección Especial 4 “Blitzkrieg Bop” by Ramones and Chapoutier Les Meysonniers 5 “Enter Sandman” by Metallica and 7 Deadly Zins Zinfandel 6 “Smells Like Teen Spirit” by Nirvana and Tantalus Pinot Noir

pairs with Alternative Rock

pairs with Heavy Metal

7 DEADLY ZINS LODI OLD VINE ZINFANDEL USA $25.49 337402 How much is too much? Full-bodied and unashamedly jammy, this old vine Zinfandel brings the noise and then some—fruit, spice and everything nice in a rich red.

TANTALUS PINOT NOIR BC VQA $39.99 200881 Electric vibes shine through in this garnet-coloured beauty. Red fruit meets bramble, floral notes and herbs in this punchy yet well-tailored Pinot Noir.

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CHATEAU DAVIAUD BORDEAUX ROUGE France $19.99 401073 This ready-to-drink-now Bordeaux blend has an expressive nose of ripe blackberry, cassis and lots of spice. It opens on the palate with charming fullness, smoothness and depth. This is an excellent value you will not want to miss out on.

ANGEL’S ENVY KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY USA $79.99 205144 Toasted crème brûlée greets the nose, while vanilla, honey, caramel and juicy red-fruit flavours slide delectably over the tongue in this port barrel-finished bourbon.

LA FIOLE RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES France $29.99 110414 The newest addition to the Fiole lineup, the grapes in La Fiole Réserve are carefully selected from the best villages in the Rhône Valley. Expect aromas of black cherry, ripe strawberries, currants and spices with a touch of mint, violet and vanilla. The wine is concentrated with elegantly melted tannins.

KINGSTON 62 GOLD RUM Jamaica $24.49 62313 The newest offering from Appleton Estate, flavours complemented by vibrant citrus, ginger and cinnamon notes. It’s the perfect companion to ginger beer or cola. Kingston 62 offers buttery honey, molasses and vanilla

ASTROLABE CHARDONNAY New Zealand $33.99 276568 This richly textured Chardonnay benefits from lees aging and bâtonnage. It offers lush stone fruits along with vanilla creaminess, toasty oak and a lick of minerality on a long finish. This wine will develop more complexity with bottle aging, but can be enjoyed now with roast chicken, seared miso tuna and mushroom risotto.

BREAD & BUTTER ROSÉ USA $24.49 177100 Juicy strawberry, hibiscus and rose petals make this rosé blend of Barbera, Grenache and Muscat a must-have wine all year round. The lovely acidity in this wine pairs well with whatever your creativity cooks up!

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Handmade Pasta

PAIGE MANZIE Paige loves a dinner party! Spending a year of high school in Italy sparked a passion for food and entertainment at a young age. Over the last few years her love of cooking and presentation has transitioned from hobby to career. She works as a freelance food stylist as well as a private chef, hosting intimate dinner parties and catering events.

Handmade Butternut Squash Ravioli with Brown Butter, Pancetta & Sage

pairs with Handmade Butternut Squash Ravioli TOM GORE CHARDONNAY USA $21.99 381079 Buttery apple pie, pineapple and baking spices make this creamy and flavourful Chardonnay the perfect pairing for fall comfort foods.

pairs with Handmade Butternut Squash Ravioli GRAY MONK PINOT NOIR BC VQA $23.99 251835 This Pinot Noir showcases bright acidity, cherry, redcurrant, raspberry and rose petal notes with a touch of vanilla. This is the perfect seasonal transition wine. Try it chilled on those warmer days.

pairs with Handmade Linguine Puttanesca

BATASIOLO BARBERA D’ALBA

Italy $16.99 311555 This lively Piedmont red has plenty of ripe dark fruit, healthy acidity and dried herby spices that will pair beautifully with flavourful dishes.

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for recipes, see index on page 132

| HANDMADE PASTA |

Handmade Linguine Puttanesca

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for recipes, see index on page 132

pairs with Handmade

Orecchiette with Brussels Sprouts & Sausage ALTESINO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO Italy $29.99 769141 This 100 percent Sangiovese wine is aged for a minimum of one year before release. Its cherry-pomegranate body, fresh acidity and herby notes cry for well-spiced meats and anything tomato-based.

Handmade Orecchiette with Brussels Sprouts & Sausage

pairs with Handmade

Orecchiette with Brussels Sprouts & Sausage

CHIANTI CLASSICO ROCCA DELLE MACÌE Italy $20.99 308510 In this classic wine, dark cherries, raspberry, spice and earth flavours are framed by structured tannins and bright acidity. This wine will go well with Margherita pizza and Italian sausage.

pairs with Handmade Linguine Puttanesca

LA GUARDIENSE JANARE FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO Italy $20.49 863613 Pronounced fah-lahng-gee-nah, this wine is a tropical buffet of candied peaches, orange blossom, honeysuckle and pineapples. Its juicy, tangy palate is delicious with or without food.

| HANDMADE PASTA |

Handmade Gnocchi with Mushroom Cream Sauce

pairs with Handmade Gnocchi with Mushroom Cream Sauce

Did you know?

SANDHILL CABERNET MERLOT BC VQA $21.99 168641 This is a Merlot-dominant blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The smoky oak and dried herb aromas lead to flavours of plum and blackcurrant. Delicious with aged cheeses, mushrooms and grilled meats.

LOUIS LATOUR ARDÈCHE CHARDONNAY France $24.99 132498 This wine from an iconic Burgundy producer is appealing for its elegance and freshness. It showcases a buttery, round texture with notes of orchard fruit, almond and hazelnut. Perfect with cream sauces.

Making your own pasta is easier than you might think. Check out the recipe section on page 132 for instructions on how to recreate each of these delicious pastas from scratch.

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for recipes, see index on page 132

Dark Spirits 26

DAVID WOLOWIDNYK A Certified Specialist of Spirits and a founder of the Canadian Professional Bartenders Association, David is accredited nationally and globally, holding titles such as “World’s Most Imaginative Bartender” (Bombay Sapphire), “Canada’s Best Mixologist” (Grey Goose) and “Bartender of the Year” (Vancouver Magazine). David is an influential veteran in Canada’s cocktail culture.

There’s a never-ending journey exploring dark spirits, so mix up a cocktail or sip them on their own to open a world of flavour.

A s temperatures drop in fall and winter, the popularity of dark spirits increases. They tend to evoke a feeling of warmth and comfort, similar to the foods we eat at this time of year. There is great diversity among dark spirits, covering many shades and intensities of colour and even more differing flavours through the categories of whisky, brandy, rum and agave spirits. So, how are dark spirits made and why do they share some common flavour profiles regardless of the ingredients used to make them? All spirits are clear and colourless when they are first made and may be introduced to colour and flavour through the post-distillation process. Prior to distillation, there is also an opportunity to introduce flavours such as the smoky character of peat, the ingredients used and distillation

evolve over time. Much like people, age and maturity are two different things. Age refers to the amount of time that a spirit spends in the barrel, and maturity refers to when the spirit is finished aging and has reached the peak of its intended development. Depending on the spirit, a producer will make barrel decisions required by category or regional rules, or simply to achieve a desired style of spirit. The specific chemistry involved in the maturation of spirits is quite complicated and involves six processes, which we will look at in detail: extraction, evaporation, oxidation, concentration, filtration and colouration. Further influence will depend on if the barrel is

brand new, previously used for other spirits, toasted with a flame or heavily charred. Sometimes a producer will choose to increase the complexity of a spirit by transferring that spirit between multiple barrels, each of which will impart different characteristics. Take, for example, the Bear Face Triple Oak Canadian Whisky featured in the Honey Bear cocktail on page 29. This whisky starts out in used American oak, ex-bourbon casks adding

SMOKED APPLE RICKEY 1½ oz (45 ml) The Famous Grouse Smoky Black Blended Scotch Whisky ¾ oz (22 ml) Apple Cinnamon Cordial * ½ oz (15 ml) lemon juice 3 oz (90 ml) sparkling apple juice oatmeal cookie, for garnish (optional) In a mixing glass with cubed ice, add peated whisky, apple cordial and lemon juice. Stir to combine. Strain into a chilled Collins glass, add sparkling apple juice then fill glass with cubed ice. Garnish with an oatmeal cookie, if desired. *To make Apple Cinnamon Cordial, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine 2 cups (500 ml) unsweetened apple juice with 2 cinnamon sticks broken into a few pieces. Reduce apple juice by half to yield 1 cup (250 ml), about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove larger pieces of cinnamon and strain through a coffee filter to remove all particulates. Rinse saucepan and combine apple-cinnamon mixture with 1 cup (250 ml) sugar. Simmer to dissolve. Store refrigerated, up to 1 month. Makes 1¼ cups (310 ml).

techniques. Moist, malted barley is exposed to peat smoke before

THE FAMOUS GROUSE SMOKY BLACK BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY United Kingdom $30.99 752006 Expertly blended from the houses of The Macallan and Highland Park with a generous addition of rare peated malt, this smooth, aromatic whisky delivers dried fruit and rounded barley right to the finish.

fermentation and that flavour profile will remain with the spirit throughout distillation and post-maturation. The smoky character can be a wonderful contrast or complement to a cocktail. Experience it firsthand with the Smoked Apple Rickey cocktail featured here. Oak barrels are responsible for a lot of the colour that is seen in dark spirits and will also introduce distinctive flavour profiles. Spirits can be aged in oak for anywhere from several months to several decades allowing the spirit to

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| DARK SPIRITS |

notes of honey, crème brûlée and vanilla, before moving to ex-red wine French oak casks that impart flavours of dried fruit and then finally to air-dried, virgin, toasted Hungarian oak casks that bring a unique spice character and subtle smoky quality. Each of these different casks plays a role in the spirit’s complexity. Extraction An untreated barrel will impart less influence into a spirit than if the wood has been exposed to heat, thereby altering its composition and deeper extraction of flavour is possible. Toasting or burning the inside of a barrel will caramelize the hemicellulose or sugars in the wood forming the “red layer” just below the charred surface and will provide not only colour but seemingly sweet aromas and flavours, such as caramel, butterscotch, vanilla and chocolate. Evaporation Oak is permeable and some of the liquid in the barrel will evaporate through the pores of the wood. Depending on the temperature and humidity at the location where the barrels are stored, there will be approximately three percent loss of liquid annually. This evaporation is called the “angel’s share” and will increase in warmer climates.

BEARFACE 7-YEAR-OLD TRIPLE OAK CANADIAN WHISKY Canada $39.99 161329 This Canadian whisky is triple barreled, creating a delicious flavour adventure: heavily charred ex- bourbon casks add vanilla and caramel flavours, red wine casks impart rich fruit, and finally, virgin toasted Hungarian oak casks sprinkle a little spice on the finish.

CAROLANS IRISH MIST

HONEY BEAR 2 oz (60 ml) Bearface Whisky ¾ oz (22 ml) Carolans Irish Mist 2 dashes Angostura Bitters lemon peel, for garnish In a mixing glass with cubed ice, combine whisky, Irish Mist and bitters. Stir to chill and dilute. Strain into a chilled cocktail coupe. Garnish with a lemon peel expressed over surface of the cocktail.

Ireland $36.49 20768 This delightful liqueur is made from a base of aged Irish whiskey, combined with clover honey, heather and aromatic herbs. Subtle, sweet honey character with flavours of vanilla and caramel are balanced by light herbal spice notes.

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FRUIT & NUT 2 oz (60 ml) Raisin-Infused The Kraken Black Spiced Rum * ¾ oz (22 ml) Disaronno Amaretto 2 dashes Walnut Bitters In a mixing glass with cubed ice, combine the raisin-infused spiced rum, Amaretto and bitters. Stir to chill and dilute. Strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass over cubed ice. Garnish with reserved rum- soaked raisins on a cocktail pick. *To infuse rum with raisins, combine 1 x 750 ml bottle of rum with 1 cup (250 ml) of raisins in a 1 L (4-cup) canning jar, and let sit for 12 to 24 hours. Strain rum back into bottle and reserve raisins for garnish and perhaps your favourite dessert recipe. Oxidation Because of evaporation and the semi- porous nature of the oak, oxygen is allowed to seep through the wood and provides desirable oxidation, allowing additional esters to form and increasing aldehydes and acids. Concentration Concentration is a result of evaporation and volume loss of the spirit remaining in the barrel. The unchanged, original components of the spirit are concentrated over time along with the newly extracted and oxidized constituents. Filtration When the inside of a barrel is charred, a layer of charcoal is produced and will act as a filter to remove undesirable compounds. Colouration The charring process slightly degrades the tannins in the wood and creates the “red layer” of caramelized sugars giving the spirit a reddish colour that deepens as it ages. The spirit’s colour may turn brown through the process of oxidation, and the concentration of colour will increase over time because of evaporation.

AMARETTO DISARONNO ORIGINALE Italy $29.99 2253 Said to first be created in 1525 in Saronno, Italy, this sweet liqueur is made from apricot kernels along with 17 spices and fruits, balanced to taste like almond and marzipan with a sprinkle of spice.

THE KRAKEN BLACK SPICED RUM Trinidad-Tobago $30.99 199455 This aged Caribbean rum distilled from molasses is perfectly balanced with spices, including cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and vanilla. The dark, deep, rich flavours are fitting for the legendary sea creature it is named after.

| DARK SPIRITS |

Sometimes colouration can be manipulated in other ways too. Take for example The Kraken Black Spice Rum featured in the Fruit & Nut cocktail. This mythical beast of a spiced rum has been infused with a secret blend of 11 spices and a little concentration of molasses, adding to the dark, rich colour and flavour profile. Distinctive notes of caramel, toffee, cinnamon, clove, vanilla, ginger and nutmeg lead to deep and complex flavours. Although all oak barrels will provide similar influences on a spirit, the spirit itself has its own characteristics that will develop through the maturation process. The Hornitos Black Barrel tequila spends time in three different casks, starting in ex‑bourbon casks that impart some whisky‑like notes of vanilla and caramel before moving to brand new, heavily charred American oak casks, adding a strong oak character and deep colour, and then finishing in lightly toasted casks that impart a little spicy character. This is a tequila that will often excite a whisky enthusiast and open up a world of flavour exploration with similar traits of whisky, yet still with the clear presence of agave, leading to a smooth finish. The Triple Barrel cocktail is a great example of letting the spirit shine as the star of the cocktail with few additional ingredients involved. Generally speaking, dark spirits have more flavour than clear spirits; they are influenced during the post-distillation process that provides deeper, richer flavours with many layers of complexity. While this is often true, we should resist assumptions about a spirit’s character and quality based on its appearance or colour, and let the perception of aroma and flavour reign supreme. From the various ingredients used to make a spirit, to the method of production and post- distillation manipulation, dark spirits will continue to evolve because of the unquenched thirst of what might be possible in this never-ending exploration. So, mix up a cocktail or sip them on their own to open a world of flavour.

TRIPLE BARREL 2 oz (60 ml) Hornitos Black Barrel Tequila 1 tsp (5 ml) maple syrup 2 dashes Angostura Bitters

HORNITOS BLACK BARREL TEQUILA Mexico $46.99 425728 Aging for one year in ex-bourbon casks, then four months in heavily charred American oak casks and finishing in a toasted American oak cask creates a distinctive tequila with a whisky‑like character.

large cubed ice, to serve orange peel, for garnish

In a mixing glass with cubed ice, add tequila, maple syrup and bitters. Stir to combine. Strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass over large cubed ice. Garnish with an orange peel.

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Affordable Wines to Start a Collection

NICOLE MACKAY Nicole MacKay is a wine writer and consultant who holds her Level 3 Certification from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and is a member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. Her passion for wine was sparked in the summer of 2004 while working in the tasting room of an Okanagan winery. That passion grew, as did the desire to explore the stories behind the bottles, which led to the creation of her own website, SocialSips.ca. Follow her on Instagram @SocialSips.

Starting a collection is simple. It takes one visit to your local BCLIQUOR store and one quality bottle you’re willing to lay down for a couple of years.

A wine collection starts with just one bottle. Not a vintage series from a prestigious producer. Not a sought-after limited release. And not a library wine that’s never seen the light of day outside of the winery cellar. You don’t need thousands of dollars to stock up on cult gems. Starting a collection is simple. It takes one visit to your local BCLIQUOR store and one quality bottle you’re willing to lay down for a couple of years. And it doesn’t need to be expensive. For the cost of a lunch out, adding a bottle here and there will result in a thoughtful and diverse collection that is enjoyable throughout the years, possibly decades, to come. But knowing which bottles will improve with age is the key to building a solid collection. Brush Up on Reputable Regions Certain wines from particular areas typically age better. Generally, when speaking about Old World reds from France, eye up Bordeaux, Burgundy or the Rhône Valley. In Italy, seek out Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino or Amarone. And in Spain, consider Rioja. Red wines don’t get all the glory when it comes to ageability. A small handful of white wines are renowned for their ability to age gracefully, becoming tastier with each year. In France, white wines from Bordeaux,

Quality Benchmarks of Ageable Wine Guesstimating a wine’s lifespan is infinitely easier if we know its quality level. Of course, this involves tasting it first, which can’t always happen. But asking for insights from your local BCL product consultants, or looking up reviews online can help. The four traits to look for in an age‑worthy wine include high acidity, tannin structure, alcohol level and residual sugar. All four need to be present and balanced to be considered good quality with the potential to age. High acidity wines start their life strong, then slowly mellow out. A wine that starts with low acidity doesn’t have the longevity to be a part of a collection. It’s a similar story for tannins. In red wines, higher tannins help a wine age for years. However, this trait is not a requirement for age-worthy white wines, as many improve with age without tannins. For white wines, residual sugar is the component to look for in regard to ageability, particularly with Canadian Icewine or German Riesling. And finally, when considering alcohol levels, a wine with low to moderate alcohol (about 13.5 percent ABV or less) is desirable for age-worthy table wines. Higher alcohol levels risk wine turning to vinegar. The exception, however, is fortified wines, like Port or Madeira.

Vouvray and Burgundy are good bottles to include in a diverse collection. The same goes for Riesling from Germany, which can sometimes age for decades. However, wines from the Old World shouldn’t fill every spot in the collection. New World regions have solidified themselves among the best. Whether it’s the Napa Valley, Mendoza or the Okanagan (where Icewine garners a tremendous reputation globally), adding a few of these gems will ensure a well-rounded collection. Know the Wine’s Lifespan Purchasing a bottle from a reputable region is not the only requirement to start a collection. There are a few other factors to be aware of. Namely, most bottles on shelves—no matter the region—are made to consume within their first year or two. Sure, some are drinkable well beyond that window; however, knowing which ones will improve with age is the key. Without pursuing formal wine education, the best way to know a wine’s lifespan is to seek the advice of a BCLIQUOR store product consultant. They know quality producers and memorable vintages, all things that go into knowing whether a bottle will improve five, 10 or 20 years down the road.

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| AFFORDABLE WINES TO START A COLLECTION |

Tips for Starting a Collection TIP #1: FOLLOW ITS DEVELOPMENT Buy two of each of the bottles that you intend to store, so that you can monitor their aging progress. Note the purchasing date with a bottle tag or in a notebook. Drink one in a year, the other in five years. If it’s one you like, buy it again to keep the collection stocked. TIP #2: MIND THE PACKAGING Natural cork is the most reliable closure for aging wine, as it’s been used for centuries. Wines under screwcap also provide a reliable barrier to oxygen; however, most producers use screwcap for wines intended Find a cool, dark spot that will maintain a constant temperature (this is key). Any fluctuation in temperature or light can impact the wines’ longevity. Store the bottles on their sides to avoid the corks from drying out. TIP #4: KEEP TRACK Don’t forget to keep notes about the wines you like or dislike, as a reminder for future purchases. With every purchase, remember its purpose. Some collections serve to increase in value over time. But most are meant for enjoying, maybe not today, but someday. When in doubt, buy what you like to drink. for early consumption. TIP #3: LOCATION, LOCATION!

CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE DES PAPES CHÂTEAUNEUF- DU-PAPE France $53.99 619197 plum mix with dried garrigue , sweet pipe tobacco and stony earth. A beautiful, textural and gentle palate leads to a smoky finish. Aromas of ripe blackberry and

FONTANAFREDDA SERRALUNGA D’ALBA BAROLO Italy $49.99 99424 Intense dark fruit aromas mingle with notes of baking spice and vanilla. The flavours are soft and ripe, with a focused structure and velvety undertones.

NIK WEIS ST. URBANS-HOF OLD VINES MOSEL RIESLING Germany $26.99 597997 Succulent peach and ripe apple blanket the tongue with a dusting of slate and saline. A hint of dried herb speckles through a delicate, off-dry finish.

STAGS’ LEAP PETITE SIRAH USA $48.99 433052 Brambly notes of blackberry and blueberry accentuate this robust wine. A smoky thread weaves through hints of licorice and black pepper with generous tannins and a lingering finish.

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN VIDAL ICEWINE BC VQA $50.99 558452 375 ml flavours of peach, mango and honey are accented by hints of lemon zest and marmalade. Explosive and concentrated Luscious sweetness balances nicely with an inviting acidity.

CLOS DE LOS SIETE MENDOZA RED Argentina $29.99 128710 Generous aromas of blackberries and blueberries carry this full-bodied expression through the finish. Ripe and silky tannins combine with a zeal of well-structured charm and freshness.

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