by Tim Pawsey
One of the easiest ways to find lower‑alcohol wines is to track down bottles from wine‑producing regions with cooler climates…
W hen the mercury begins to rise, it’s no surprise that our palates lean towards different tastes, especially in wine. Our preference shifts from hefty reds to lighter drops such as Gamay or Pinot Noir, or to less oaky or entirely unoaked whites, especially aromatics. Also, as the days warm up, we don’t appreciate the same levels of alcohol we might in cooler months. Happily, when it comes to summer sustenance, you don’t have to sacrifice good taste. The last few years have seen a gradual shift towards lower- alcohol wines, and that means there’s a whole lot more to choose from. Alcohol in wine is commonly measured by alcohol by volume (ABV) and is clearly indicated right on the front label. As far as exactly what constitutes “low alcohol,” Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) defines below 11 percent ABV as the benchmark for low, 11 to 14 percent as medium, and 14 percent and above as high. Recently, due to the effects of climate change, sugar levels have been increasing, especially in red wines. Even though grapevines shut down at around 32 C (90 F), as nature’s way of self-preservation, increased temperatures during the growing season contribute to higher sugars. This means that good vineyard management and precise harvest times have become even more critical.
Various techniques are used to produce lower-alcohol wines. They range from proactive canopy management and earlier harvesting (when sugars are lower) to changes in the winemaking process itself. Increasingly, advanced cellar technology, such as reverse osmosis, is employed to lower or remove the alcohol. In the vineyard, wine growers looking to manage extreme heat—from Argentina to Australia and even to the Okanagan—are planting at higher elevations. Also, vines are being planted in regions once too borderline for ripening but now being embraced for their more moderate climates. One of the easiest ways to find lower-alcohol wines is to track down bottles from wine-producing regions with cooler climates—such as Germany, New Zealand or Europe’s Atlantic coast. The steep, slate slopes of Germany’s dramatic Mosel Valley have been planted to Riesling since 1453. Off-dry Riesling Kabinett, made from grapes which are less ripe, usually checks in at around 8 to 10 percent ABV. It’s a variety more than any other that truly reflects its terroir and sports juicy acidity—which is what helps make it so very food-friendly. Riesling is almost never oaked, and its low alcohol makes it an ideal aperitif or easy-sipping lunchtime wine with seafood or lightly spiced dishes.
A prime example of what the Mosel Valley can offer, the very popular Dr. Loosen Riesling balances its fruity profile with characteristic juiciness and a crisp finish, all at just 8.5 percent ABV. In Northeast Italy, the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions (not far from the Alps) are home to Prosecco, which can now claim to be the most popular sparkling wine of our time. One reason for Prosecco’s global success is its easy-drinking character, thanks to lower alcohol, usually around 11 to 12 percent. A Veneto hallmark, Villa Teresa’s popular organic Rosé Frizzante (11 percent ABV) sees Merlot and other red grapes fermented first in stainless steel. This creates a lower-alcohol still wine, which then goes into a specialized autoclave tank for secondary fermentation that turns it into sparkling wine. Also from the Veneto, Bianco di Masi is a new, dry organic white wine from Masi Agricola, one of the region’s most historic producers (established in 1772). This blend is made with Garganega, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio harvested at the coolest time of day to retain the wine’s freshness. Yet, despite its lower alcohol (11 percent ABV), it still manages to deliver some heft and
length, a perfect patio companion— in a more sustainable bottle that’s lighter than normal by one-third.
bcliquorstores.com
69
Powered by FlippingBook