BC Spotlight Fort Berens: Trailblazers
Heleen Pannekoek & Rolf de Bruin Founders
Lillooet may seem like a surprising place to find fine wine, but Fort Berens Estate Winery has been producing award-winning wines here for more than a decade. And this very dry region, which lies 180 kilometres northeast of Vancouver in the rain shadow of the Coast Range, is one of British Columbia’s (BC’s) newest designated wine-producing areas, or Geographical Indications (GIs).
The Visionaries When Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin first envisioned their winery, they figured it would be in the Okanagan Valley. However, with vineyard values soaring there, they opted to look elsewhere—and on the advice of the late Harry McWatters, the grandfather of BC wines, they landed in Lillooet. Trial plantings of grapes on the area’s benchlands had been underway since the 1970s, with several varieties proving promising. Establishing a commercial vineyard in the region was still a bold move, a real gamble of sorts. Initially, in 2009, the Fort Berens co-founders and co-owners planted Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. They relied mainly on Okanagan fruit to make wines while their vines matured, but today Fort Berens Reserve and Small Lot wines are made entirely with estate-grown grapes. Their other wines use a high and ever-increasing percentage of these grapes.
A Growing Region Lillooet may be outside of BC’s traditional wine regions, but conditions are “just as good as in the Okanagan,” says Pannekoek. “The quality of the grapes is just fabulous,” and “tasting is believing!” The Lillooet GI extends some 100 kilometres along the Fraser River, with most suitable vineyard land on benches between 250 and 400 metres above sea level. Growers measure the heat of a climate in growing degree days, and Lillooet’s is similar to Osoyoos’s. In summer the mercury in Lillooet can push well beyond 40 C (104 F). But winds off nearby Seton Lake help keep the temperature around 35 C (95 F). Those optimal growing conditions and the potential for between 3,000 and
Fort Berens Riesling BC VQA $23.99 641357 Upfront orchard and citrus fruits lead to a juicy green apple and grapefruit palate that pairs with everything from mild curries to chips and salsa.
Fort Berens Meritage BC VQA $32.99 78113 Forward red and black berries emphasize a plush and plummy palate, with cassis and vanilla notes wrapped in approachable tannins that marry well with grilled meats and strong cheeses.
5,000 acres of cultivated land are drawing others to investigate the area. Pannekoek reckons that can only enhance the industry more.
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