Sample Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone wines, and from their widely varied tastes, it’s hard to imagine they have so much in common. The Valpolicella is light-bodied, juicy and fresh, with tart red fruits; the Ripasso adds dried plum and cherry with a medium body; and the Amarone is rich, full-bodied, intense and brooding. Yet all these wines begin in the same place and from the same grape varieties. It goes to show that sometimes the terroir of a region triumphs, sometimes it’s the grape variety and other times the winemaker’s decisions have the biggest impact on a wine’s style and taste. This is never truer than with the red wines of Italy’s Veneto region.
Common Ground: Terroir & Grape Varieties The terroir for all three wines is the beautiful Valpolicella DOC of the Veneto region in northeastern Italy. Valpolicella is a series of valleys tucked into the hills above the picture-perfect cobbled streets of Verona and to the east of Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda, continuing to the plains in the south of the region. As with many popular wine regions in Italy whose boundaries have expanded as more vineyards are planted, the original Valpolicella zone has its own appellation: Valpolicella Classico. The region’s cool to moderate climate naturally produces fresh and light wines—the Valpolicellas— but two newer styles, Ripasso and Amarone, are stealing the limelight. The dominant grape in the region’s three main styles is the local red variety, Corvina, or its close relative Corvinone, both giving fresh, bright cherry and red fruit notes. By law, Corvina must contribute 45 percent to 95 percent of a blend (Corvinone can replace up to 50 percent), supported by other local grapes such as floral Rondinella and, less commonly, tart Molinara. Small amounts of other grapes are allowed, with some producers reviving rarer local varieties such as Oseleta.
Bolla Valpolicella Classico Italy $18.99 16840
Masi Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico Italy $21.99 285585 A fresh, light-bodied wine with red plum, red cherry, blueberry, raspberry, violet, earth and graphite notes. The silky, low-tannin palate has crisp acidity.
A light, dry, crunchy, juicy red with notes of burlap, tart red cherry, raspberry, earth, game and leather with spicy paprika on the long finish.
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