1 TASTE Winter2024 Book

Paradise Ranch Merlot Icewine BC VQA $28.99 106260 200 ml

Tough rules like these ones ensure that Canadian Icewine meets standards worthy of such a specialty wine. But the rules are also intended to fiercely protect its authenticity. Before the rules came in, Icewine was often usurped in the market by fraudulent “freezer” wines that tasted nothing like the real thing. To ensure authenticity, Canadian Icewine is always labelled as VQA. Does Nature Play a Role? Unpredictable winter weather may mean fewer sufficiently cold days to freeze the grapes. Plus, if and when the harvest does arrive, birds, bears and deer may have already helped themselves, reducing the crop by as much as two-thirds. With such low yields, it’s no wonder this much sought after nectar is so highly prized. White or Red? Riesling is regarded as the vinifera variety most suited to Icewine, mainly for its high acidity. Also widely used is the French hybrid Vidal, which is renowned for its winter hardiness. A few other varieties also work well, including a handful of red grapes, such as Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Holiday Pairings Celebrate the holidays with Icewine on its own or matched with a suitable dessert. A general rule for food pairing is that the wine should always be a little sweeter than the dish itself, whether a savoury dish or a dessert. Almost by mistake, the first Icewine was made in February 1830, in Dromersheim, Germany, after growers discovered that frozen grapes left on the vine since harvest made absolutely delicious wine.

Bench 1775 winemaker Richard Kanazawa suggests pairing the Paradise Ranch 2022 Merlot Icewine with “anything rich and slightly salty, like chicken liver mousse.”

Richard Kanazawa

Mission Hill Reserve Riesling Icewine BC VQA $65.99 240127 375 ml

The perfect match for Mission Hill’s 2016 Riesling Reserve Icewine is crabapples. “My favourite!” confides Patrick Gayler, executive chef at the winery’s Terrace Restaurant. “Cooked and sweetened, they take on a beautiful, ripe, candied flavour.”

Patrick Gayler

Inniskillin Okanagan Estate Riesling Icewine BC VQA $33.99 598946 200 ml

Inniskillin’s Okanagan winemaker Derek Kontkanen suggests the apricot- and peach-toned 2018 Riesling Icewine is “a perfect dessert wine to enjoy on its own or with rich cheeses like blue or aged cheddar.”

Derek Kontkanen

Black Sage Vineyard Vidal Icewine BC VQA $64.99 331598 375 ml

Black Sage Vineyard’s 2022 Vidal Icewine, with its “delightful balance of sweetness and acidity...pairs beautifully with rich desserts like white chocolate cream cake

or barbecue peaches,” says winemaker Jason James.

Jason James

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